Saturday, April 26, 2008

From NW to FAR EAST OF CHINA -I

HENAN PROVINCE
Henan is the 4th province in my journey. With its two ancient capitols, Luoyang and Kaifeng, it was a place of great prosperity in the past and high development at present. Huang River running across the state from west to east, fertilized the land as well as the civilization.

It was believed to be the center of earth by ancient Chinese and named it as "Zhong Yuan 中原" meaning central plain or country. As per old saying "occupied Zhong Yuan possessed the world 得中原者得天下 reflecting how desperate the 9 ancient states kingdom were to fighting for this place. Many as far as 4 to 8,000 yrs historical ruins, remains and cultural heritage were discovered and unearthed within Henan territories. Henan was part of the place where Chinese early civilization originated, was again proven.

Buddhism actually had tremendous influences over this east province of China. The White Horse Temple in Louyang was the first Buddhist temple built in China and its Longmen Grottoes was one of the most precious treasures among the world heritage marking full glorious period of Buddhism in China during Tang Dynasty. The old temple, Shaolin Shi, world famous martial art learning center , today still is a Buddhist monastery for monks to practice Dharma.

Chinese admitted that they are the descendants of Huang Di and Yan Di 黄帝炎帝 Chinese civilization are said to be originated by these two great ancestors. Every year official grand worship ceremony is held in Henan, participated by Government as well as private sectors, with guests from inland and overseas.

(1) Peony was named flower of the most dignity in the country as per legend saying this was the only flower that refused to please the lady Emperor, Wu Ze Tian 武则天 and accept her order to blossom in the winter together with other flowers and was expelled to Louyang of Henan, where it widely flourished. Peony flower exhibition is organized every year in Louyang.
2) Huge shark fin, dried abalone, scallop displayed at the front show case of a Henan seafood restaurant, mainly cater for local business. Living style of modern Chinese is now entirely not the same as in the past.


A very important place in Chinese history -River of Chu, Border of Han- 楚河汉界 where two strong states of Han and Chu were divided. Liu Pang of Han defeated Siang Yu of Chu, who lost the battle, later committed suicide at the river side. Liu successfully conquered the whole place and throned himself to start the empire of Han Dynasty which reigned the country for 400 over years. Huang River towards downstream deposit piles of sand accumulated into sandbank 黄河沙岸

Boarding onto a hovercraft to cruise the downstream portion of Huang River. Hovercraft, supported on a cushion of air made by jet engine is able to sail over land and water. Our hovercraft was sailing into the sandbank .....


Dragon Pavilion 龙亭 is the site of imperial palace complex built during the dynasty of North-Song (960 - 1279). The name came from the carvings of dragon playing with its pearls on ceiling and walls at the hall. It is a small scale of Beijing Forbidden City. It covers 214 acres of land and its a favorable place to overview full scenery of Kaifeng City, which was the ancient capital for 6 dynasties and attained highest prosperity for nearly 200 years. Kaifeng was one of the largest city in the world during 11th century.



A panoramic scene of Huang River and its branches, over viewed from Dragon Pavilion, an ancient palace at year 960 -1125 . This was the palace where the emperor of early Song dynasty after being put up a yellow robe by his fellow soldiers declared himself a king and ascending the throne in the yr 960. After attacked and robbed by northern tribe, early Song Dynasty ended. The prosperous bustling period of Kaifeng thus return to peace. The new emperor of late Song Dynasty moved his capitol out from Kaifeng.

The Imperial Capital of Northern-Song Dynasty is the most scenic spot in Kaifeng City but it was militarily vulnerable. It situated on Grand Canal at a position on flood plains of Yellow River.

1000 years old bronze tripod, always regarded as an imperial power in the olden days, is now as an incense caldron in front of main shrine of Xiangguo Monastery for every praying visitor.



Xiangguo Temple 相国寺 is one of the most famous temples in China and was very favored by Imperial rulers during the splendor and prosperous period of Kaifeng City. There is an impressive image of Guanyin Bodhisattva in Arhat Hall with thousand eyes and hands. The gilded statue was carved from a piece of single gingko trunk. One block of gingko tree trunk, one pair of man's hands, using 58 yrs of time to complete this great piece of wood carving art, the adorable gold painted Bodhisatva Guan Shi Yin of 4 images . It has thousand eyes in thousand hands of different gestures. This wonderful wooden status is at Xiangguo Monastry (Prime Minister's Temple 相国峙) in Kai Fung, which initially was a holy "zen" centre but later in early Song dynasty, it was influenced by fully commercialized atmosphere and people, turned into a trading place like other parts of the city. Making money became more important than self cultivation then.

The pemegranate tree 石榴树 prosperous with yellow fruits near stone sculpture garden 石雕园 in the city .

The Memorial Temple of Lord Bao 包公庙 is also another attraction place in Kaifeng as Black faced Lord Bao is a familiar legendary hero in all plays and operas for his fairness in lawsuits. His actual name was Bao Zheng and was a Government official in Northern-Song period. He fought against corrupted officials and imperial members to protect ordinary people from being exploited. Lord Bao was well known for its incorruptiblity and uprightness. His iron law applied to all including government officers and royal members. Three capital instruments in front were used for different criminal victims . People imagined him into black face due to his severe punishment in his strict judgement.



Iron Pagoda 铁塔, formerly named as Yonguosi Pagoda 佑国寺塔 was constructed in the year 1049 and is the oldest landmark in Kaifeng City. It is in Octagon shape and has a height of 55.8 meters with 13 storey. Construction material were mainly crystal bricks 琉璃砖 of red, brown, blue and green color. Bricks were carved with more than 50 designs of Buddhist symbols 天龙八部. It has survived from destruction of war, floods and 38 times earthquake .

The centuries old Iron Pagoda proudly erect in the morning mist at Kaifeng, the ancient capitol of the past 9 dynasties. The height was reducing each year when water flooded in from Huang River sweeping in tons of sands and mud, covering its base inch by inch. Beautifully carved and color printed crystal bricks were the main material that make this ancient pagoda looks unique and beautiful. Though some colors started to fading away, Buddha images can be vividly recognized on each brick. Structure of Iron Pagoda does not show much aging after 1000 over years of wind and fall, rain and shine, It still stands straight and strong in this ancient city of Henan!



Sheow Lin Temple 少林峙 situated at the foot of Song mountain 嵩山 is a Buddhist holy monastery. To practice martial arts are merely exercises for monks for health purposes. No one including Master Patriarch Bodhidharma expected it to become the world famous kungfu learning center of today.

(1) Luohan murals 罗汉图 (2) Main entrance plague (3) Song mountain behind the temple site



Hit drum accrue merit as it signifies the daily commencement of kungfu practices in all categories. Training and practicing the basic kungfu foundation at the foot of Song mountain are major parts of these teenagers' daily life in Shao Lin Shi.



Statue of Master Patriarch Bodhidharma at the entrance.


Shaolin Monastry not only a world well known center for learning Dharma and martial arts but also a place of attraction for all visitors to China. The young students with bright orange robe, gathered at entrance to welcome President of China Mr Wen Jia Pau with his foreign guests were getting ready for performance.

(1) Stupas - place where Shao Lin monks or Dharma masters were entombed and enshrined after nirvana (2) The adorable main shrine built with Chinese decorative carving roof.
(3) Image of Patriarch Bodhidharma the Indian great Dharma Master who faced wall for 10 years at Song Mountain, without speaking to anyone, established the Zen lineage 禅宗 of Shaolin Temple at early 6th century.


These two ancient Chinese calligraphy 忠义 pronounced as "zhong yi" which means faithful and loyal are two very specified character required by ancient Chinese. It is displayed at the front part of Quan Lin temple where the head of Quan Gong being chopped off and separated from body, was buried. The red face Quan Gong was the popular warrior in the The Three Kingdom history. He is a typical symbol for faithful and loyal character till to-date, many Chinese businessmen still worship him for his great conduct.


Longmen grottoes are one of the most precious heritage in the world but it is very sad to see that images at many grottoes were either pilfered away or destroyed during China's cultural revolution under Mao's reign between 1967-1977。



At Longmen Grottoes in Luoyang, Image of Amitabha Buddha and full scence of Avatamsaka period with Buddha, Boddhisatva, beautifully and vividly crafted on the stone wall. Buddha's face resembled Lady Emperor 武则天 Wu Che Tian's feature. This is one of the most wonderful piece of work in Longmen Grottoes.The great creativity and diversity unique carving of Buddhist images on the whole piece stone wall.


(1) The devas stone carving at ceiling with indication of period and year sign in color.(2) Images of Buddhas were vividly seen on the carved stone wall .

Excavation of Sakyamuni Buddha。




SHANXI 陕西
Province of Shanxi situated almost at the centre of China map, with Huang River crossing over, was one of the world earliest human civilization starting spot. Its main city, Xian, known as Chang-An in the past, was the greatest political capitol of the country for more than thousand over years covered 12 dynasties. It was 3 times bigger than Rome Empire of that time and was the major inter-link and inter-change international bazaar for the trade and economic between the east and west side of the earth. It became a reputable metropolis where races from different corners, with different customs, religions, culture, commodities, literature, arts were met and gathered, exchanged and shared, learned and influenced among each other.

The high prosperity period of this city ended when the last Emperor of Tang Dynasty was chased out of the Kingdom Capitol in the year of 904.

Xian plays a very important role at the stage of Chinese history. Large scale of historical relics, artifacts, ruins and remains unearthed and discovered had made Xian a Grand Museum of China. Its armored Terracotta Warriors and Horses, its Buddha's bone relics at Famen Temple, its Grand ancient mosque, its centuries old bell and drum towel, attract great interest from people all over the world. Xian glittering like a big diamond in ancient China and still is shinning in the modern China of 21st century.

Bell and Drum towels, built in the year of 1380 and 1384 was the tool for announcing time in the olden days and are the two magnificent building symbols of Xian City today. Both towels are rectangular in shape, with arch doors at 4-sides, 4-spiral corners, with layers of copper constructed internally, like an antique pavilion at the busy traffic in Xian.

Discovery of the armored terracotta warriors and horses in 1974 by a local farmers when digging a well, amazed the whole world. It was listed the most unusual cultural heritage in the earth. The Bronze vehicle horse unearthed in 1980, size and lively sense are similar to real ones. Horses and armored terracotta, vitalized as alive. Each armored Terracotta Warrior in almost uniform size, had characteristic expression individually. And surprisingly, the identification of individual craftsman was found at the base of each figure. It shows that products manufactured with quality assurance, had been in forced in China 2200 yrs ago. China should do it better in this 21st century.


Five royal bathing pools of Tang Dynasty were discovered in 1982 April together with 3000+ precious heritage.

Picture showed was Princess Yang Kui Fui (杨贵妃) 's pool. Isn't it look similar to our jacuzzi pool used in our modern spa parlour? Beautiful scenery at Hua Qing Hot Spring where the ancient bathing pools were discovered. It was a resort for Tang royal family.




The entrance of this group of buildings is the famous Muslim One Street where all kinds of Muslims products and food are sold and supplied in small stores owned by Muslims. The puppet in all costumes are beautifully displayed at one the stores.


The ancient mosque in Xian is an attraction . It reflects the beautiful ancient Chinese buildings style and also its Muslim history in China.

The outstanding centuries old stone carving altar, the Chinese pavilion styled Muslims reflection hall (省心楼 ) and the main shrine hall where the old Arabian Islamic literal still can be vividly seen at the front top and the two pillars.



The Chinese buildings assimilate the mosque's architectural style from the west . Chinese wording 一真(yi zhen) specified Islam which means immortality of Allah's teaching . Structure and design of the roofing and entry door are originals. Clearly stated at the entrance overhead plague was Chinese wordings - Allah worship Temple for Muslims.


The statue of Buddhist respectable Dharma Master Xuan-Zhuang. Many Mahayana Chinese Sutras reciting and practising at temples today, were brought back and translated by him.


7-story Wild Goose Pagoda (大雁塔) was built 1300 yrs ago to store Buddhist Sutras brought back from India by Dharma Master Xuan-Zhuang. It becomes one of the famous spots in Xian not only due to its long history but also its ancient Chinese architectural achievement. In memory of Xuan-Zhuang master, a huge status is erected right in front of the Pagoda Temple.

The 45m high Small Goose Pagoda, (小 雁塔)built in the year 707 with 15 stories also is the landmark of Xian. Its unique and pretty architecture constructed feature attracts many's attention. Translation of Large quantity of Buddhist Sutras taken back by sea route with Dharma Master Yi Jin was done at the Pagoda's Jianfu Temple.


Red date is always the love for all Chinese ladies because of its medical benefit. According to Chinese "Sinseh" red dates able to enhance blood reproduction. Date trees are widely planted within Gansu region. Today besides dates, huge acres of "Fuji" brand apples farms also become new cash crops for the farmers due to its world-wide economical effect.


GANSU
The Province of Gansu is the key state of silkroad journey after Han Dynasty. The unearthed artifacts disclosed the thousand years history of Hexi Corridor 河西走廊. Great volume of cultural relics like Buddhist Sutras, murals, sculptures, found at grottoes, temples, pagoda, in places like Dunhuang, Zhangye, reflected the golden era of Buddhism in western and eastern of Asia. The tomb, copper galloping horse, carts, cows, people unearthed at Wuwei Han Grave and the printed bricks, copper wares found at 1400 yrs tomb at Jiuguan, bring forth the social and daily life style of people of that period.

The Wooden Towel in Zhangye was constructed in 582 AD and its centuries old Great Buddha Temple possess large quantity of Buddhist relics, documents and wide collection of Sutra.
Zhangye today is an essential place for research on Buddhist history.

At olden time, Gansu was considered western frontier where nomads gathered. Dunhuang, Zhangye, Jiuguan and Weiwu were the four cities first built during Han Dynasty. Han races moved in bringing along their living skills. Nomads started growing crops and Hans started loving horses. More and more people were attracted to shift into this different yet harmonious society later during war time. Long period of large migrants from different areas developing into a mixed tribal culture, made the west side of Huang River (so called Hexi) grow into glory and prosperity.

Territories within Gansu becomes an important study center for archaeologists and cultural anthropologists. It also attract millions of worldwide tourists every year. Though in the past it was greatly influenced by Buddhism, but like Xinjiang, people of Gansu were later assimilated by Islamic teaching from middle east and identified as "Hui Race" in China. Among 1.4b Chinese population, there are about 40 millions Muslims, mainly reside at Xinjiang, Gansu, north west provinces of China.


A huge panonama picture lively hanged down from the edge of the earth - a scenic view along the mountainous route to Huang River Stone Forest at Jingtai. Assembled in The Huang River Stone Forest are hundreds of different postures and designs, exclusively expose in your eyes totally uncovered. Men become so tiny in this wonder of nature. That also might be the reason to become the shooting place for Jacky Chan's picture "The Myth".




Thick murky brownish water of Huang River starting from Qinghai 青海 flowing through Capital of Gansu, Lanzou , running towards North-east from centuries to centuries, respected as mother river of this ancient land, is the source of early civilization of Chinese culture.


Navigate on the Yellow River with sheepskin raft is indeed an unforgetable and exciting experience in the journey. This centuries-old simple water carriage floating on the old-aged river has become a very special scene of the spot. Sheepskin raft, small in size, simple in structure and light in weight is able to hold a freight of more than 1000 kg on water.


Donkey carts traffic the tourists into the heart of The Forest Stone. To explore round the whole sand-stone forest requires hours either by this kind of donkey carts or riding an horse. Modern vehicles are strictly forbidden to avoid unnecessary erosion of this wonder. Beautiful posture of the stone along the donkey-ride way.











There was a well inside the tomb and people throw down money to seek for luck.


The prestige bronze galloping horse, unearthed at a general's tomb in Wuwei city, is one of the finest and most marvelous cultural relics of Chinese. It is of high value in art, science and historical research. Bronze horses, carts, followers and the tomb's inner building reflecting the life style and living of a general in Han Dynasty. Its a great discovery for scholars who make research on history of Han Dynasty in Hexi Corridor.



The imitation of ancient city in Wuwei


This was the place where we ansewed the nature call as there was no washroom along the whole journey to experience dryness of places where most mummies were found.

Jiayu Pass (嘉峪关)- the terminal point of great wall in the west, constructed with wisdom, painstaking effort and sweat of Chinese labors was a fortified military stronghold for the ancient kingdom. The structure of ancient great wall.


The Pass city gate (嘉峪关) act as the immigration office for passengers to go out to the west and more often was not for coming back home. This was a sad point to say goodbye to friends, as per old Chinese poem said there wont be any old friends after stepping out off this west pass.....西出阳关无故人.













We had a great time a great food in this village restaurant, where we were entertained by Chinese traditional music and by the end, we were in the performance with our joker leader and brought high the atmosphere for all foreign tourists dinning inside.

Great view of scenery at the village resort house where we stayed near DunHuang.



Crescent-shaped spring (月牙泉), 30mx20mx5m in depth, is circled by Mingsha mountain and sand. It was a great miracle that for centuries, the clear blueish water never dried up by the high evaporation of desert heat nor covered up by sand storm. Mingsha mountain (鸣沙山)is known and named by the natural echo of nature. Sliding down from mountain side is a way to experience the thundering sound made by the quicksands.

Mingsha mountain (鸣沙山) is made up from accumulation of different coloured sands and being uplifted to form shape by the night wind. The scienic spot remains as it is for years and years, without changes. Troop of camel riders with special orange sand-walking shoes ready to explore into the top part of Mingsha mountains.

Hundreds of camels while waiting to service the guests has become the main character snap shot






Many manufacturers at Gansu produce these marble items which are able to illuminate lights at night. They are named as moonlight cup 夜光杯。

Translation: Mogao Grotto莫高窟 located at Dunhuang, west of Gansu Hexi Corridor constructed at the year of 366, till today it still maintains and reserves many different types of excavated grottoes of that time plus 700+ murals, 45,000+ sq.m. of color painted sculptures, 2000+ wooden grotto frame and treasure collections of Buddhist Sutras, arts and ancient documents etc. This is an excellent human culture relics of the world.


Colourful flying Devi in murals and painted clay sculpture of Bodhisattva at one of the cave, not much sign of fading, still bright and pretty.

Buddha's nirvana statue with the 72 disciples mourning murals. The Buddha's graceful look in contrast to the sad feeling expression of the disciples still can be seen clearly.

The Stupa at the nearby area of Mogoa Grottoes. Stupa was usually a type of pagoda where monks' body or ash were kept after they died.

Captured a mirage scene at this huge Gobi Desert was a good experience.
The 38oo yrs old lady mummy was unearthed at ancient Loulans State of Xinjiang in 1980. Whole corpse with elastic hair plus internal organs were very vell preserved by the dry climate and hot weather. Quite a number of mummies are exhibited in the museum and some of them were with attires and decorative accessories, colour polished nails. Very very interesting !

XINJIANG
Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region at the North West frontier of China, covered with wide areas of sands and deserts was an essential point where the ancient East and West were met, culture was exchanged. This central section of silkroad extended to a distance of almost 7000 km, making a bridge from yellow river to Ganger of India, to Greek and Persia kingdom.

In the past, it was greatly influenced by Buddhism and later by Islamic teaching. While admiring the glorious history of Buddhism at the ruins of ancient cities, the temples, the grottoes, you also cannot avoid giving attention to the exclusive Muslim worship towers and their mosques which merged the Islamic decorative style into the architecture of Chinese traditional buildings so well and so outstanding. The structure of Xinjiang population of today is made up from dense Muslims. Xinjiang's historical position has made it a place of attraction. The unique nature scene, the ancient heritage, the mixture culture, the wide range of tasty fruits, produced an interesting journey to people of all areas.

Tianshen 天山 Tianchi 天池 the heavenly mountain and lake located in Xingjiang, are fairyland to most tourists. Its various species of wild birds, rare animals, plants and layers of pine trees has created a cool summer resort for people of nearby desert-covered territories. Tianchi 天池 by the side of Tianshan is nearly 5 sq.m. in size, about 2000 m above sea level is said to be the palace of Queen mother of the West. It is circled by hills, glaciers, rivers. To enjoy its cool air, and witness its full panorama view, take a boat and cruise on it.





The magnificent Islamic tower and Mosques in Xinjiang indicating the style of tradition Chinese Building blended with the Islamic decorative design stands out exclusively at town centre Er-Dao-Qiao. In Islam, Koran (sutra) and the Kris (short knife) are always the holy symbol of their religion. Hand-made kris are obtainable in all design and shape in specialized store like this at the market place of Xinjiang.





Xinjiang produce hundreds species of grapes in the province and dry air in the region turn the excess grapes into raisins so naturally. Grape is an important anti-oxidant food and according to the local farmers, some special type of raisins are also classified as kind of Chinese medicine to improve certain uneasiness in our health. Professional dancers danced and sang Wangluo-Bing's song merrily and so naturally in the open air under the grape plants. It must be part of their happy life.

Enjoying seasonal fruits of Xinjiang under bunches of grapes hanging down over your heads. The freshness and sweetness is beyond description of speech. Do not miss the moment when visit Xinjiang in summer. Fresh-plunged fruits, traditional local dances with beautiful smiles made us feel warm and merry.



Karez well is the best reflection of the ancient Chinese's wisdom. They made underground canals to direct the melting snow water from high mountains, retain and reserve in the wells for irrigation and drinking . Project took years and great manpower to complete but it entirely solved water-shortage problem for the whole desert areas in the undeveloped time. Till now the canal still flowing with cool unpolluted spring water.



Status of the Chinese greatest musician Wangluo-Bing in front of his memorial hall at Daban City. Many Chinese in mainland or overseas till todate are still in great favour of his rhythms and songs.


Donkey cart is the only vehicle allowed to visit the Ruins of Gaochang city. The ancient capital city, covered almost 2 million sq.m., was built in 1st century BC and destroyed by war in 4th century AD. It was a key place of the silkroad history. From the preserved sites, one can imagine the prosperity of this ancient city and how important was the role it played for Buddhism to widely spread over China.

The teaching room of Buddhist master Hsuan-Tsang. The master gave the sermon in this ancient city for more than a month before proceed on his pilgrimage to India for sutras. The temple built with the tamped earth, door and wall were so well preserved that give us the opportunity to understand the golden period of Buddhism at that time.





The flaming mountain火焰山 at Turpan is famous for its unbearable heat and popular in the Chinese Novel - Monkey God 西 游记 which vitalised the hardship of Buddhist master Hsang-tsang when passing the mountain during his pilgrimage journey to India....No life inclusive a little grass can ever has a day survived on this flaming mountain. The whole area is totally bare with burning red earth. The other attraction at Turpan is The Thousand Buddha Grotto but very sad that most of the Buddha images, status, carving, murals were damaged by natural and man-made disaster. There are only 22 caves left behind. Though there was no any indication of excavation time but extimated to be 2500 yrs ago,within the glorious period of Buddhism.



The huge flaming red pomegranate looks very tempting. Its sold in whole or fresh squeezed juice. Pomegranate is an seasonal fruit and according to specialist, the fruit's enzyme can helps to prevent and reduce heart sickness. Another type of seasonal fruit - The Spanish apple which hardly can be seen in other parts of the world. Its not big in size but with centre part nipped in, looks cute. It taste more like appricote than peach. Melons are so attractive in hot season at hot spots. A 2-3 kilo big Hamid melon 哈密瓜 cost less than rmy 10.00 is able to end 8-10 persons' thirst within minutes.

The grilled skewered meat (肉串烧)-popular food in Xinjiang. They use all kinds of animal meat inclusive the intestine, except pork which all Muslims are forbidden to take. Choose as many vegetables you like from the display and she will wrap them in a steamed rice-flour sheet with some sauces. It looks interesting and healthy too. (菜卷)

Seafood meal in desert town is possible nowadays in China. Various seafood from crabs, prawns, squid to all types of clamp are available in this inland city Urumuqi and are ready for immediate cooking to serve you fresh on spot. Transportation within China Provinces is so developed today that nothing is impossible in China of 21st century.

刀削面 kind of popular noodle in this region. Piece by piece of wheat flour were sliced into boiling soup rapidly by trained and skilled cook. Process of making flour dough is an important step to decide the munching strength of the noodle and the soup decide the taste of the dish.

It's a local custom to serve guests or customers with whole grilled lamb. (烤全羊) Traditionally they use authentic earthen ground stove and have the whole lamb grilled for hours in a nature way. This method of course had been replaced by electrical oven today.